| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: Someone with a 2008 Roadtrek 190
The older converter will output a steady 13.6 to 13.8 volts. Your pump and lights etc. run off that when you are plugged in.
The newer inverter 12v output will vary from 13.2 to 14.4 volts (depending on your battery state of charge) when you are plugged in. That varied voltage will be what is seen at the batteries and therefore at the distribution panel and also what your pump and lights are running off.
|
markopolo
|
07/30/09 03:14pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: Someone with a 2008 Roadtrek 190
In the 2003 drawing, with the switch on, voltage is sent to the converter/charger from the batteries which would also incorporate the 12v distribution panel. Your water pump etc. gets voltage routed through the distribution panel.
With the 2003 drawing, I think you're right about the 12 volts (from the converter) reaching the distribution panel as soon as you plug in.
In the 2003 drawing the switch would need to be on for the house batteries to get charged because the charging voltage from the converter needs to get back through the switch to get to the batteries.
In the 2008 drawing, with the switch on, voltage is sent to the 12v distribution panel. Again, your water pump etc. gets voltage routed through the distribution panel.
In the 2008 drawing, as you noted above, both the batteries and the inverter/charger are on the same side of the switch. The house batteries should get charged with the switch on or off.
|
markopolo
|
07/30/09 02:53pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: Dometic reefer help...
........... To get cooler temps, try sliding this clip down to the bottom of the fin...........
I think that should be move the thermistor up to cool more, down to cool less. Some Dometic fridges actually have a label inside with those instructions.
|
markopolo
|
07/24/09 11:43am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: Upgrading my Fantastic Fan
Re: amp draw
I think the "Low AMP draw (0.2 - 1.9)" coupled with "High speed air flow 920 SCFM" is suggestive. It makes you think that it’ll achieve air flow of 920 SCFM at 1.9 amps.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p297/classb1/fanfan.jpg
At least that’s what I thought it meant when I first read it. The highest amp draw of this unit would be 1.9 which would be a phenomenal improvement over the 3 amps on other models (on high).
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p297/classb1/lowamp.jpg
Now I think that, on the LOW setting, the amp draw is .02 to 1.9 amp hrs. because there are so many speed settings. On its highest setting (full HIGH) the amp draw will still be 3 amp hrs.
Also, whenever your coach battery is enabled the remote receiver will be “listening” and therefore always drawing a little bit of power.
|
markopolo
|
05/18/09 02:22pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: PW plateau ?s
...............1. macerator fuse has gone out several times.......
Basically, low voltage = more amps needed = blown fuse.
Low voltage could be caused by low batteries or inadequate wiring for the macerator.
The 20amp fuse blew once on my DIY macerator installation ('04 RT 190P). The gauge of the wire I used was not sufficient for the length of the wire run. I rewired it with 10 gauge wire. No more problems.
If you have the appropriate wire size then your batteries are probably low when you dump. In that case, run the van engine when you're dumping.
|
markopolo
|
04/19/09 10:34am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: Clanging Noise under the Floor
If the furnace is on that side I'd take a good look at it to see if anything is loose. I recall reading something similar to this quite a while ago and the noise ended up being caused by the furnace.
|
markopolo
|
04/18/09 01:00pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: Drill hole in wheel?
Chuck the Tire Man told me about a method to stop wheel covers from rotating.
I believe he said Lazy Daze adds a 1" long threaded nut to one of the wheel bolts. The original wheel nut is left in place. The extended nut is added. That extended nut fits inside the fake nut on the wheel simulator. The wheel simulator will then only rotate until it hits the nut extension.
Sounds like a good idea to me.
|
markopolo
|
03/13/09 02:07pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Bigfoot motorhome how to connect hinged body panel to step?
I took some pics for you, but don't have any photo hosting set up, so I'll email them to you. Check your private messages for my email address.
Thank you so much. I got all six photos. They tell me exactly what I need to know. I'm only missing the little "L" bracket which is the easiest part to get.
I cropped, brightened and resized the three that show the arm and how it is attached to post here in case any one else ever needs this info.
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k145/markopolo_photo/IMGP0582.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k145/markopolo_photo/IMGP0583.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k145/markopolo_photo/IMGP0593.jpg
|
markopolo
|
03/10/09 11:08pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
Bigfoot motorhome how to connect hinged body panel to step?
The painted body panel that attaches to the bottom of the Kwikee step is not attached to the used Bigfoot motor home I purchased recently.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd294/classb7/step.jpg
I have the body panel and steel arm. The steel arm looks like it attaches to the Kwikee step side and then it must also attach to the hinged body panel.
One missing part is the piece that would connect the arm to the panel. I don't know if anything else is missing.
What does the part that connects the arm to the panel look like? What are its dimensions? I'll have to make it. My guess is that it is some sort of "T" or "L" bracket. It might even be hinged.
Does the panel get pulled up / back when the steps are lowered?
Would someone be able to take a few photos of how it all connects together and post them here or send them to me? Just hold a camera under and snap away.......
If you can't take a photo maybe you could describe the part that connects the arm to the body panel for me.
|
markopolo
|
03/10/09 09:04am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: What Do You Think?
I recently bought an RV that sat unused for a year. It's not a B but the parts are similar.
Problems on mine:
Onan generator carb gunked up inside - the carb will probably have to be replaced.
Roof mounted air conditioner motor seized. I've freed it and it works now but not sure how long it'll last.
Toilet bowl rubber seal is dried out. I'll have to replace the seal.
|
markopolo
|
03/06/09 09:04am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: Rodger's shower mod
.....MarcoPolo... you mention 1,2 Both diverter (sorry - I dont' know these terms - I feel handicapped :) ) -- do you mean that you keep the existing shower head and add the sink sprayer?....
Yes, you keep both. I think the correct name is a three way diverter valve. It is used for head and hand shower combinations.
|
markopolo
|
02/01/09 01:16pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: Rodger's shower mod
The kitchen sink sprayer as shower head really works well.
If you camp with full hookups and want a hands free shower consider using a 1,2,Both diverter then you can select the regular shower head, or the sprayer or both by turning the diverter valve to what you want.
|
markopolo
|
02/01/09 12:11pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: RV antifreez test
From the spec sheets I've seen -50 degree RV antifreeze is already very much diluted. It is only 25% to 30% Propylene Glycol and 70% to 75% water etc. Propylene Glycol is the "active ingredient" in RV antifreeze.
-100 degree RV antifreeze is approx 50% Propylene Glycol.
You can find higher concentrations such as -200 degree!
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q308/classbphoto/3160020SeaSafe200.jpg
Those higher concentrations would be better to use if it is going to be further diluted.
This chart shows the freezing point for various percentages of propylene glycol and water mix.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q308/classbphoto/pg.jpg
|
markopolo
|
01/05/09 08:30pm |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: Battery isolater function
........That info would also imply that the 1315-200 should charge the van battery when the house batteries are being charged from shore power..........
Use a volt meter to know for sure. Read the voltage at the chassis battery when your van is plugged in. If it is more than 12.8v then both banks are charging.
......... It only takes a #14 wire to activate that feature............
The 2 gauge cable I referred to in my previous post was about the cabling from the battery separator to the house batteries.
That is referenced in the pdf link you provided.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd294/classb7/2gauge.jpg
The 14 gauge wire is for the switch (and the lamp).
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd294/classb7/14gauge.jpg
According to the schematics in the online '06 Roadtrek 190P owner manual they used 6 gauge cable and 50 amp breakers on the cable from the isolator to the house battery. In the online '08 Roadtrek 190P owner manual it shows they used a mix of 2 gauge and 4 gauge cable with a 80 amp breakers on the cable from the battery separator to the house battery.
Maybe your '07 is setup like the '08. I don't have an '07 manual to look at. Even if it is, do you think you would trip the 80 amp breakers when using the aux start feature?
FMVan - do you have breakers on that line in your installation?
|
markopolo
|
01/01/09 10:32am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: Battery isolater function
I wondered if you had an isolator or a battery separator (1315-200)
I think it has an emergency start feature that would boost the chassis battery from the house batteries but I don't think RT installed it that way. (I think it needed #2 gauge cable to handle the current)
Link: Older posts re: 1315-200
Does your van have a Tripp Lite inverter/charger?
If so, my guess is that it doesn't "shut-off" because it has gone into "float" mode which is good. :)
When plugged in, have you measured the voltage at the chassis battery? If it is more than 12.7v then your charger is charging both banks. That is a very nice feature as you pointed out that you can use the van radio etc. when parked and plugged in without having to worry about discharging the chassis battery.
My RT had an isolator. I hooked up a small jumper cable connecting the two outer posts on the isolator to keep the chassis battery fully charged when plugged in.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s20/classb4/jumperiso.jpg
It had to be removed before starting the van. (or unplugging it)
I was not worried about connecting the two dissimilar battery banks because they were being charged.
I figured I could always "charge" the chassis battery using the jumper in a dead chassis battery situation. I would have removed it before trying to start the van because doing so would have tripped the 30 amp breaker on the cable to the house batteries. Some Roadtrek's have 50 amp breaker which is still not sufficient to withstand starting current.
|
markopolo
|
01/01/09 02:51am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: Floor mats for Roadtrek.
I purchased a one piece mat for the cab area made by Lloyd Mats for my 2005 Chevy. It's their Rubbertite line. Part # is LM3178080. You can pick from Tan, Black, Grey or Clear.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa134/classb5/IMG_4679.jpg
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa134/classb5/IMG_4671.jpg
The fit isn't exactly perfect but it works for me. The indentations do a good job trapping sand and water etc.
|
markopolo
|
12/16/08 07:18am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: B+ motorhomes
Fantastic work Cheeze! Looks like you've got what you wanted / envisioned. Very impressive.
|
markopolo
|
12/08/08 07:38pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Pleasure-Way Newest Addition 2009 Lexor-RD
The photos were part of the pdf file press release.
An article on RV Business stated that the Base MSRP will be $69,000.
|
markopolo
|
11/25/08 07:10am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: Pleasure-Way Newest Addition 2009 Lexor-RD
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd294/classb7/2009pwlexorrd.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd294/classb7/2009pwlexorrd1.jpg
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd294/classb7/2009pwlexorrd2.jpg
|
markopolo
|
11/24/08 01:26pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
|
|
RE: B+ motorhomes
Fantastic! Look at all the aisle space. Accessing the overhead cupboards will be easier. Is it to scale?
What program did you use?
|
markopolo
|
11/14/08 11:09pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
